After being introduced to the joys of vegetable growing a few years ago, I decided that I would benefit from having some raised beds. I started off with two 12 ft x 4 ft beds and have since added another of the same size. I built each of these beds in the autumn as this allows time for the soil to settle before planting in the spring. Here are a few tips for you to consider before you start building your beds.

Set up the raised bed garden the right way in the beginning! Plan your raised garden bed exactly how you want it because it can be difficult to move later. Make it adaptable so that you can add more raised beds as you need them.

Sunlight! If possible position your raised bed to maximize the amount of light it will receive. Most vegetables like full sun and will thrive in open areas with plenty of exposure.

Some people advocate having a separate bed for each vegetable type but I don't think this is necessary. Four feet is probably the maximum width to use unless you are particularly tall, as you should be able to reach the centre of your bed without having to stand on it. The length of the bed depends on the space available but I have found 12 feet to be a reasonable length. Just remember to allow sufficient space to kneel between the beds and to use a wheelbarrow.

Your vegetable garden's raised bed arrangement should make things convenient for preparation, planting and harvesting. You want a garden that is comfortable to move around which makes your time in the garden much more pleasant!

Consider the best materials for building your raised bed. Brick - built beds will be relatively expensive, but you may consider it worth the investment if they fit in best with the rest of your garden. If you have them high enough you can sit on the wall while tending your plot - certainly a consideration if you aren't as mobile as you once were. There are numerous companies that will supply timber raised bed kits, though these tend to be in smaller sizes. I built my beds with treated timber obtained from the local woodyard using the following method.

1) As the beds were going on an area which was previously lawn, I marked out an area slightly larger than the size of the beds and removed the turf.

2) I obtained four 12 foot lengths and four 4 foot lengths of 6inch x 3/4inch treated timber and also 8 two foot lengths of 2 inch x 2 inch for corners and intermediate support. This provides you with a 12 inch deep bed. If you only want a 6 inch deep one then half the quantities of wood.

3) I fastened the shorter sides to the longer by means of 4 inch nails hammered through the corner pieces and then bent over so they won't pull out. I then fastened the intermediate supports at four foot intervals to the inside of the raised bed frame.

4) Place the frame in position, though it will currently be up in the air due to the corner and supporting pegs. Dig holes under each of the pegs so that your bed sits level. This can be a bit fiddly but needs to be done. If your bed is on sloping ground you may need to raise the lower end - I have a row of bricks under mine while the higher end is dug into the ground a few inches.

5) I broke up the turf that I removed earlier and placed it green side down in the bed, after which I added a good layer of well-rotted horse manure. To this I added topsoil and some of my own compost, which I mixed with the manure and then left to sit until the spring. This year I have grown onions, garlic, beetroot, spring onions, potatoes, peas, broad beans, french beans and lettuce in my three beds. You will need to consider crop rotation so that you don't plant the same crop in the same position every year.

Consider companion planting your plants to maximize space. Many plants have repellent properties to ward off pests and others help enrich the soil with nitrogen fixing properties like members of the legume family. Herbs make good companion plants as do many flowers.

I hope you have found this article useful and enjoy raised bed gardening for many years to come.

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